Isla Chira

Landing on Isla Chira was stepping into an untouristed land of ticos, subsisting mainly on fishing. There are about 2500 people on the island, and just 2 lodges. The public bus that met the boat took us to Armistad Lodge, run by an association of women who decided to set it up 6 years ago when they saw that the fish were running out. One of them, Lilianna, told us their story, roughly translated by our guide Greivin...

They couldn´t persuade the men to diversify so they set up the association themselves, obtaining a grant that enabled them to buy most of the materials for the first cabina, but no labour. They built it on their own, the men refusing to help. The place is still v male dominated, and the men wanted the women to to stay home. One left his wife; Lily´s husband left her but came back later. So they had to learn to build. She said they wasted a lot of materials by doing it wrong, and showed us the time roof where they´d had to redo it leaving nail holes. They used all income for the first 3 years to build the restaurant cabin, and then some more accommodations. 2 years ago they started to make money out of it.
When the fishing got really bad the men finally saw what they had achieved, and actually apologised for not helping! They also followed their example and set up a fishing association with the aim of learning how to manage the fishery sustainably, which they now do. How about that then?!

These women were strong and full of character. The food was good too: Locally caught Sea bass and shrimps.

At 6am Greivin led birdwatching, where we saw a nightjar asleep on the ground, and woodpeckers and wonderfull colourful things I can´t think what else. Then he showed Peter how to tease a Lion Ant out of its hole by blowing and flicking with a stick. Poor Lion Ants...

We cycled to see the local school where we met a lovely class of 8 year olds taking English lessons. We´d gave them some story books we´d bought as a present.

After we set off to their own boat (that the women built, again teaching them a good trick they adopted!) and went to an island full of birds, and saw manta rays swiming round us. Then went fishing for bass. Alas one bite but no fish. When we got back to the shore the fishing boats were coming in. One boat had had a great day and showed us about 12 huge bass - maybe 5kg+.

Next day P & G went birdwatching together again. Then all off to boat with all luggage and headed to small port through mangrove swamps, and found crocs and huge green iguana, blue herons, pink things like small flamingoes, black hawk, ospreys (!)... I can´t think what else.

Finally picked up at the shore by a taxi and taken for lunch at a place that tries to teach about solar ovens. We had a meal cooked on them, including fab cakes...

Then continued to the bottom of the reserve (name I´ll have to check) containing the Cerro Escondido lodge. Met great old man Carlos who lives there, who owns the land and helped set up the reserve to protect it.

Gotta go. More later...